And So It Begins… Three Basic Sock Recipes (The pdf of this file can be found here)
This basic sock is worked from the toe up to your gauge for a
custom fit. It has the option of one of
four different heels. It can be worked
in any yarn from fingering to worsted weight on needles to create a fabric
pleasing to you.
This is a pattern excerpt from Abundant Sole, with a projected
release date in 2012.
There are only so many ways to present this concept. The toe and heel will be used throughout the
patterns that follow. I will refer to
them repeatedly. I highly recommend that
you knit the plain sock first, especially if this is your first foray into sock
knitting. It will give you the basics
you need to knit a sock for yourself, and information you will need to knit
socks for anyone else. If you are using
a variegated yarn, this is a chance to let the colorway show to best
advantage. We will talk about gauge, but
we are talking about your gauge, not someone else’s. This sock has a plain increase toe,
stockinette foot, one of three heels, plain ankle and leg, and a ribbed
cuff. Sounds a bit like a diving
competition doesn’t it?
A moment on heel designs. They are as personal and individual as the
feet you knit for. You will need to try
them out to decide which one works the best for you. The difference may be the construction of
the heel, or the way it feels, or even the way it looks in the sock. If at any time in the process of knitting
the sock you decide the stitch pattern isn’t working, or the heel design isn’t
working, it can be ripped out and reworked, provided you have not bound
off. Even then, it can be taken back
out. Not a pretty process, but it can be
done. Plus, because we are knitting from
the toe up, the socks can be tried on as you go, ensuring that you like the fit.
If you are not feeling entirely comfortable with the pattern or
design, you can put in a lifeline. In
fact, when you are beginning, lifelines are highly recommended. Dental floss works well, as does scrap yarn
in an contrasting color. At the end of each
section, thread a tapestry needle with the string of your choice and run it
through all of the stitches on the needle.
Knot it loosely so that the string is secure. Then continue knitting the sock, making sure
you do not knit the lifeline strand. Instead
let it rest in the stitch. Then if you
decide to take out a section you can take out your needle and just rip the
stitches out. The ripping will stop at
the lifeline. Follow the string with
your needle, and pick up the stitches.
You are ready to start over. All
you have invested is a bit of time…and a bit of learning. You have learned about what you do not like.
A quick note on yarn weights: If you are using a yarn larger than
fingering weight, change the cast on for the toe as follows:
DK- cast on a total of 16 stitches, 8 on each needle (great boot
socks)
Sport – cast on a total of 12
stitches, 6 on each needle (great thick boot socks or bed socks)
Worsted- cast on a total of 8 stitches, 4 on each needle (great,
warm bed socks)
Bulky - cast on a total of 8 stitches, 4 on each needle (who am I
to judge?)
Another thought: Use worsted or bulk weight to make a holiday
stocking.
Got your needles and yarn? Good,
let’s knit a sock.
Short Row
Heel Sock
1 Measure your foot
1
Measure your foot length:
_____________ inches
2
Measure how big around your foot
is: _________ inches
2 Increase Toe – will be worked in the round
1)
Using either Figure 8 or Turkish
method, cast on 12 stitches on each of 2 circular needles.
2)
*K1, M1, knit to 1 stitch before
the end of the needle, M1, K1* repeat for second needle
3)
Knit all stitches
4)
Work rows 2
and 3 until the toe of the sock fits over all of your toes without the little
toe without stretching. This will
give you the 10 % negative ease needed to allow the sock to stretch comfortably
over your foot without slipping off.
Write down
how many stitches you have total: ____________
3 Foot – will be
worked in the round
Knit all stitches for the the foot of the sock until it is 2
inches shorter than your foot length. If
you want to try the sock on to measure it, stop working the foot when the edge
of the sock just covers the ankle bone on your foot without stretching the sock.
Write down how many rows you have: _________ (count how many V’s are in a column from your
needle to the cast on end)
4 Short Row Heel – will be worked back and forth on the sole needle, there are two
methods presented: one for those who don’t mind purling, and for those who do
not want to purl
Purling method:
1)
Using only the sole stitches (the
needle without the markers), knit to 1
stitch before the end of the needle.
Slip the last stitch to the right hand needle. Wrap the working yarn around the stitch
(without working the stitch) and return the stitch to the left needle. Turn your work around. This is called a wrap and turn.
2)
Purl to one stitch before the end
of the row, wrap and turn.
3)
Knit to one stitch before the last
wrapped stitch, wrap and turn.
4)
Purl to one stitch before the last
wrapped stitch, wrap and turn.
5)
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until one half
of the stitches on that needle have been worked altogether (example – there are
28 stitches on the needle, wrap and turn a total of 14 stitches, 7 on the knit
side, and 7 on the purl side)
6)
Knit to next wrap stitch, wrap and
turn (this stitch will now be wrapped twice)
7)
Purl to next wrap stitch, wrap and
turn (this stitch will now be wrapped twice)
8)
Knit to double wrapped stitch,
knit this stitch, wrap the next stitch and turn.
9)
Purl to double wrapped stitch,
purl this stitch, wrap the next stitch and turn.
10)
Repeat rows 8 and 9 until all
stitches have been worked and you are ready to work in the round again.
11)
Knit one row, picking up a stitch
in the bar between the front needle and back needle on each side.
No-Purl
method:
12)
Using only the sole stitches (the
needle without the markers), knit to 1
stitch before the end of the needle.
Slip the last stitch to the right hand needle. Wrap the working yarn around the stitch
(without working the stitch) and return the stitch to the left needle. Turn your work around. This is called a wrap and turn.
13)
Knit to one stitch before the end
of the row, wrap and turn.
14)
Knit to one stitch before the last
wrapped stitch, wrap and turn.
15)
Knit to one stitch before the last
wrapped stitch, wrap and turn.
16)
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until one half
of the stitches on that needle have been worked altogether (example – there are
28 stitches on the needle, wrap and turn a total of 14 stitches, 7 on the knit
side, and 7 on the purl side)
17)
Knit to next wrap stitch, wrap and
turn (this stitch will now be wrapped twice)
18)
Knit to next wrap stitch, wrap and
turn (this stitch will now be wrapped twice)
19)
Knit to double wrapped stitch,
knit this stitch, wrap the next stitch and turn.
20)
Knit to double wrapped stitch,
knit this stitch, wrap the next stitch and turn.
21)
Repeat rows 8 and 9 until all
stitches have been worked and you are ready to work in the round again.
22)
Knit one row, picking up a stitch
in the bar between the front needle and back needle on each side.
Write down how many times you did a wrap and turn in each
direction: __________
5 Leg – worked in
the round
Knit all stitches to desired
length of leg.
Write down how many rows you worked: _________ (count as you did
for the foot)
6 Cuff – worked in the round
Knit in rib of choice for 1 ½”
. A 2X2 rib is the most stretchy, but
1X2 or 1X1 works just as well.
Bind off loosely using a stretch
bind off as follows: Knit 2 stitches, slip these 2 stitches back to the left
needle, k2tog, * k1, slip 2 stitches
back to left needle, k2tog * repeat to the end of the row. Break your yarn about 8 inches from the end,
and secure it using a darning needle by slipping it into the first stitch on
the sock and then weaving your ends.
Weave in the end from the beginning of the sock.
Write down how many rows of ribbing you worked: __________
Measure your gauge.
Why?, you ask. Well, knowing your gauge will allow you to
take measurements of other people’s feet, and translate those measurements into
socks. Remember, we are gauge impaired,
not gauge inept. We have our own
inherent gauge. We just can’t get anyone
else’s gauge.
To measure your gauge, take a
ruler to your finished sock. Count how
many stitches you have in one inch in each direction. Write these numbers down. (There is a chart
for you to do this at the end of the book, in the resources section.) This is your gauge. It will be different for different yarns and
needles and combinations of the two.
Don’t fall into the trap of thinking ‘I get x stitches to the inch in sock yarn’, this will lead you down a
dangerous road every time. Instead think
‘I get x stitches to the inch in this sock yarn.’
Short Row Heel
|
|
|
|
Gauge
|
|
|
|
|
Stitches/inch
|
|
|
|
Rows/inch
|
|
|
Foot
circumference
|
|
|
|
Foot length
|
|
|
|
|
||
|
Cast On
|
|
Stitches
|
|
Increase to
|
|
Stitches
|
|
Foot rows
|
|
Rows
|
|
Short rows
|
|
Rows
|
|
Ankle rows
|
|
Rows
|
|
Leg rows
|
|
Rows
|
|
Cuff rows
|
|
Rows
|
|
|
||
1 Measure your foot
3
Measure your foot length:
_____________ inches
4
Measure how big around your foot
is: _________ inches
2 Increase Toe – will be worked in the round
5)
Using either Figure 8 or Turkish
method, cast on 12 stitches on each of 2 circular needles.
6)
*K1, M1, knit to 1 stitch before
the end of the needle, M1, K1* repeat for second needle
7)
Knit all stitches
8)
Work rows 2
and 3 until the toe of the sock fits over all of your toes without the little
toe without stretching. This will
give you the 10 % negative ease needed to allow the sock to stretch comfortably
over your foot without slipping off.
Write down
how many stitches you have total: ____________
3 Foot – will be
worked in the round
Knit all stitches for the the foot of the sock until it is about 3
½ inches shorter than your foot
length. If you want to try the sock
on to measure it, stop working the foot when the edge of the sock just comes to
the ankle bone on your foot without stretching the sock.
Write down how many rows you have: _________ (count how many V’s are in a column from your
needle to the cast on end)
Wedge Heel – worked in three parts –
wedge increase in the round, short row worked flat, and heel flap worked flat
Gusset increases – working in the round, increases are made on the sole needle
Row
1 - make one stitch, place a marker, knit to the end of the needle, place a
marker, and make one stitch, knit to the end of the round
Row
2 – knit all stitches
Row
3 – make one stitch, knit to end of needle slipping markers as you come to
them, make one stitch, knit to end of row
Repeat
rows 2 and 3 until the wedge depth desired is reached (usually between 10 and
15 times), then repeat row 2 one more time.
This section will wrap your foot comfortably to approximately past the
ankle.
Turn heel – using only the sole needle and short rows work as follows:
1) Using only the
sole stitches (the needle with the markers),
knit to 1 stitch before the second marker. Slip the last stitch to the right hand
needle. Wrap the working yarn around the
stitch (without working the stitch) and return the stitch to the left
needle. Turn your work around. This is called a wrap and turn.
2) Purl to one
stitch before the marker, wrap and turn.
3) Knit to one
stitch before the last wrapped stitch, wrap and turn.
4) Purl to one
stitch before the last wrapped stitch, wrap and turn.
5) Repeat rows 3
and 4 until one half of the stitches on that in between the markers on that
needle have been worked altogether (example – there are 28 stitches on the
needle, wrap and turn a total of 14 stitches, 7 on the knit side, and 7 on the
purl side)
Heel flap – will be worked using only on
the sole needle. The first row will be
beginning in the middle of the heel on the right side.
Row 1 - knit all stitches up to one stitch before the marker (knit
the wraps together with the stitches as you come to them), place a new marker,
knit the next stitch together with it’s wrap and the first stitch after the
marker (removing the old marker), turn
Row 2 - slip one, purl to one stitch before the last marker (purl
the wraps together with the stitches as you come to them), place a new marker,
purl the next stitch together with it’s wrap and the first stitch after the
marker (removing the old marker), turn
Row 3 - slip 1, knit until
the marker, k2tog, turn
row 4 - slip 1, purl to the
marker, p2tog, turn
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all heel wedge stitches have been
worked, turn work , slip one and knit to the end of the needle, removing the
markers as you go.
5 Leg – worked in
the round
Knit all stitches to desired
length of leg.
Write down how many rows you worked: _________ (count as for the
foot)
6 Cuff – worked in the round
Knit in rib of choice for 1 ½”
. A 2X2 rib is the most stretchy, but
1X2 or 1X1 works just as well.
Bind off loosely using a stretch
bind off as follows: Knit 2 stitches, slip these 2 stitches back to the left
needle, k2tog, * k1, slip 2 stitches
back to left needle, k2tog * repeat to the end of the row. Break your yarn about 8 inches from the end,
and secure it using a darning needle by slipping it into the first stitch on
the sock and then weaving your ends.
Weave in the end from the beginning of the sock.
Write down how many rows of ribbing you worked: __________
Measure your gauge.
Why?, you ask. Well, knowing your gauge will allow you to
take measurements of other people’s feet, and translate those measurements into
socks. Remember, we are gauge impaired,
not gauge inept. We have our own
inherent gauge. We just can’t get anyone
else’s gauge.
To measure your gauge, take a
ruler to your finished sock. Count how
many stitches you have in one inch in each direction. Write these numbers down. (There is a chart
for you to do this at the end of the book, in the resources section.) This is your gauge. It will be different for different yarns and
needles and combinations of the two.
Don’t fall into the trap of thinking ‘I get x stitches to the inch in sock yarn’, this will lead you down a
dangerous road every time. Instead think
‘I get x stitches to the inch in this sock yarn.’
Wedge Heel
|
|
|
|
Gauge
|
|
|
|
|
Stitches/inch
|
|
|
|
Rows/inch
|
|
|
Foot
circumference
|
|
|
|
Foot length
|
|
|
|
|
||
|
Cast On
|
|
Stitches
|
|
Increase to
|
|
Stitches
|
|
Foot rows
|
|
Rows
|
|
Wedge
increase
|
|
Rows
|
|
Short rows
|
|
Rows
|
|
Leg rows
|
|
Rows
|
|
Cuff rows
|
|
Rows
|
|
|
||
Fleegle Heel
Sock
1 Measure your foot
5
Measure your foot length:
_____________ inches
6
Measure how big around your foot
is: _________ inches
2 Increase Toe – will be worked in the round
9)
Using either Figure 8 or Turkish
method, cast on 12 stitches on each of 2 circular needles.
10)
*K1, M1, knit to 1 stitch before
the end of the needle, M1, K1* repeat for second needle
11)
Knit all stitches
12)
Work rows 2
and 3 until the toe of the sock fits over all of your toes without the little
toe without stretching. This will
give you the 10 % negative ease needed to allow the sock to stretch comfortably
over your foot without slipping off.
Write down
how many stitches you have total: ____________
3 Foot – will be
worked in the round
Knit the foot of the sock until it is about 2 inches shorter than
your foot length. To get technical about
this, you will be increasing 2 stitches less than the total number of stitches
on your sole needle ( half of the sock stitches – 2 = number of stitches to
increase as well as the number of rows it will take to do the increases). Calculate your row gauge, and divide the
number of stitches to be increased by row gauge. This is how many inches you need to leave for
the wedge. Subtract this number from the
total length of the sock. This is how
long the foot should be before you start the Fleegle wedge. If you want to try the sock on to measure
it, stop working the foot when the edge of the sock just covers the ankle bone
on your foot without stretching the sock.
Write down how many rows you have: _________ (count how many V’s are in a column from your
needle to the cast on end)
4 Fleegle Heel – this heel is worked in two steps:
Fleegle Wedge – worked in the
round
Row 1 M1, work
to end of needle, M1, knit to end of row
Row 2 – knit to
end of row
Repeat rows 1
and 2 until the sole needle has 2 stitches less than half the total number of
stitches (example: if you started with a
total of 60 stitches, then you will repeat rows 1 and 2 until there are 58
stitches on the sole needle à 30 stitches
+28 increase stitches on the sole needle)
When the Fleegle wedge is finished, the sock will be as long as
your foot. For experience sock knitters,
this will look way too long and a bit strange.
Go with me on this. It
works. If you are a couple of rows
short, knit a couple of rows even.
Fleegle Flap – worked flat on
the sole needle only
Setup row 1 –
knit to half of the stitches, k2, k2tog, k1, turn
Setup row 2 –
slip 1 with yarn in front, p5, p2tog, p1, turn
Row 1 – slip 1
with yarn in back, k to one stitch before the gap created in last row, k2tog, k1,
turn (this closes the gap in this row and creates a new one for the next knit
row)
Row 2 – slip 1
with yarn in front, p to one stitch before the gap created in last row, p2tog,
p1, turn (this closes the gap in this row and creates a new one for the next
purl row)
Repeat rows 1
and 2 until all sole stitches have been worked, you should have 2 stitches more
than half of the total stitches left on the sole needle (if you have 60
stitches total, then you would have 32 stitches left on the sole)
Knit one round, knitting
the last stich on the sole needle together with the first stitch of the insole
needle, knit to the last insole stitch, knit that stitch together with the
first stitch on the sole needle, knit to the end of the sole needle. This closes up the gap between sole and
insole, and should leave you with the same number of stitches you had before
starting the Fleegle heel.
5 Leg – worked in
the round
Knit all stitches to desired
length of leg.
Write down how many rows you worked: _________ (count as for the
foot)
6 Cuff – worked in the round
Knit in rib of choice for 1 ½”
. A 2X2 rib is the most stretchy, but
1X2 or 1X1 works just as well. Bind
off loosely using a stretch bind off as follows: Knit 2 stitches, slip these 2
stitches back to the left needle, k2tog,
* k1, slip 2 stitches back to left needle, k2tog * repeat to the end of
the row. Break your yarn about 8 inches
from the end, and secure it using a darning needle by slipping it into the
first stitch on the sock and then weaving your ends. Weave in the end from the beginning of the
sock.
Write down how many rows of ribbing you worked: __________
Measure your gauge.
Why?, you ask. Well, knowing your gauge will allow you to
take measurements of other people’s feet, and translate those measurements into
socks. Remember, we are gauge impaired,
not gauge inept. We have our own inherent
gauge. We just can’t get anyone else’s
gauge.
To measure your gauge, take a
ruler to your finished sock. Count how
many stitches you have in one inch in each direction. Write these numbers down. (There is a chart
for you to do this at the end of the book, in the resources section.) This is your gauge. It will be different for different yarns and
needles and combinations of the two.
Don’t fall into the trap of thinking ‘I get x stitches to the inch in sock yarn’, this will lead you down a
dangerous road every time. Instead think
‘I get x stitches to the inch in this
sock yarn.’
|
Fleegle Heel
|
|
|
|
Gauge
|
|
|
|
|
Stitches/inch
|
|
|
|
Rows/inch
|
|
|
Foot
circumference
|
|
|
|
Foot length
|
|
|
|
|
||
|
Cast On
|
|
Stitches
|
|
Increase to
|
|
Stitches
|
|
Foot rows
|
|
Rows
|
|
Fleegle
increase
|
|
Rows
|
|
Leg rows
|
|
Rows
|
|
Cuff rows
|
|
Rows
|
|
|
||
But wait, I’m not knitting for me.
That’s okay, your socks can be
customized to fit any foot and you have two choices: 1) try sock on recipient
2) take measurements and do a bit of
math
Generic formula:
Toe – cast
on 12, and work as written measuring your gauge as you go, calculate the number
of stitches you need for this sock as follows:
Total
stitches = stitch gauge *foot circumference*0.9
Round
this number to an even number
Foot length – work in
the round knitting all stitches as follows:
Short
row heel – measure row gauge
Foot
length = total length-(row gauge*14)
Wedge
Heel – measure row gauge
Foot
length =total length-(row gauge*34)
Fleegle
Heel – measure row gauge
Foot
length=total length-(row gauge*(number total stitches-2)
No comments:
Post a Comment